Wednesday 30 November 2011

PPD Assignment 2:4. Effective presentations




At this day and age, nearly everyone can expect to have an opportunity to give a presentation at some point of their professional lives, either within their workplace, or to a potential customer.

When it comes to giving a presentation, preparation is everything. Both my own experience and specialist opinion agree on this.

For preparation, one generally should, in the very least, consider the following:


Why are you giving this presentation? What's the result you're looking for?
What exactly are you going to say?
Who are you telling it? What, if anything, do they already know? What are their positions? Are they likely to be interested?
Where will you be presenting? Will all the equipment you'll need be there?
How will you deliver your message? What sort of approach would work with this audience?
Once you've these down, you can start crafting your actual presentation. This is when you need to come up with a logical structure for your presentation. There should always be a clear introduction, then the meat of your subject, and you should always finish with a summary or recap.

It's surprisingly hard to get things like the timing just right, so always, always, practice your presentation a few times. Practice won't just make the presentation better, but it will also make you properly familiar with it and help with any nervousness you might feel. I myself can quite enjoy public speaking, and always the more better prepared I am. This isn't to say I don't get the nerves, but it generally isn't my main worry when doing a presentation.

For those of a more nervous disposition, this teaser video has some useful things to say about nervousness and movement during your presentation:

Image source:http://www.research.ucla.edu/era/present/img002.GIFhttp://www.research.ucla.edu/era/present/sld002.htm

Tuesday 29 November 2011

PPD Assignment 2:3. Team Building

There is a vast number of theories about how exactly groups and teams develop. We're now going to take a quick look at the "Forming - Storming - Norming - Performing" model of group development, also known as Tuckman's Group Development model, named after its creator Bruce Tuckman.


According to this model, there are four stages in the formation of any team or group of people.


Forming
This is the first stage of the development of a team of people who haven't worked together before. Everyone is nice to everyone, and the team mostly concentrates on getting its routines worked out. Not much is accomplished towards the team's actual goal at this point.

Storming
The second stage isn't named without reason. At this stage the team members have become comfortable enough with each other to express dissent - or just complain. The true purpose and direction of the team are worked out. Some teams never make it out of this stage, and those are not pleasant situations to work in.

Norming
Most teams and groups make it to this stage. Members are comfortable with each other and agree on and work towards their common goal.

Performing
The most high performance teams get to a stage where the members are able to work together seamlessly, without outside supervision. Productivity is very high, and teams at this stage are a real pleasure to be a part of.



However, long-standing teams never remain in the Performing stage. Things like changes in team composition will cause the team to revert back a stage or two, so the in practice the process is a cycle. 

I must say many things make more sense now that I'm actually aware that teams and groups go through this process of development. 

(Image sources: http://theteambuildingexperience.com/images/team_building.jpg, http://www.alchemyformanagers.co.uk/topics/r64ZCZGCF8evQ5Wf.html)

Thursday 24 November 2011

Plant ID Week 7


Stipa tenuissima 'Pony tails' - feather grass

An elegant tufted and densely-packed grass with oat-like flowers in soft, feathery plumes. Useful for natural planting schemes, as ground cover and for cutting and drying. Looks particularly impressive in mass plantings.
Size: 75x60cm

Cultivation notes:
[Grasses:] Soak rootball thoroughly before planting and add an organic soil improver as well as a general fertiliser. Water in drought conditions. Cut back in early spring.
Grows best in poor soil in sun; becomes floppy in rich soil.









Thuja plicata - western red cedar
A tall conifer suitable for use as hedging and screening in large gardens, or as a specimen tree
Size: 20-35x6-9 m

Cultivation notes:
[Trees:] Planting hole 1.5 times width of rootball, add organic matter and support(s). Add a 5 cm layer of mulch around the base and keep well watered until established.

Vs. Chamaecyparis lawsoniana: crushed foliage has a fruity scent.









Choisya ternata - Mexican orange blossom

An evergreen shrub with glossy, palmate, aromatic leaves and scented spring/summer flowers. Best suited for shrub borders.
*RHS award of garden merit
Size: 2.5x2.5 m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.
Prefers fertile well-drained soil in full sun.











Carpinus betulus 'Fastigiata' - upright or fastigate hornbeam

Dense trees with pointed, oval, serrated leaves that give a good autumn colour. The compact crown makes this var. useful for street planting, parks and avenues as well as small gardens. Also excellent for hedging.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size: 15x12 m

Cultivation notes:
[Trees:] Planting hole 1.5 times width of rootball, add organic matter and support(s). Add a 5 cm layer of mulch around the base and keep well watered until established.
Can take very hard pruning.








Lonicera pileata -privet honeysuckle

An evergreen low and spreading ground cover shrub with small glossy leaves. Tolerates shade and seaside and can also be used for low hedging.
Size: 60 cm x 2.5 m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.
Sprouts again quickly after pruning, perhaps not the best choice where a very tidy hedge is desired.





Elaeagnus x ebbingei - oleaster

A fast-growing, tall evergreen shrub with leathery leaves. Young shoots and undersides of leaves are silvery. Shrubberies, tall ground cover, hedges and especially shelter for windy coastal conditions.
Size: 4 x 2 m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.
Fertile well-drained soil, can grow well in partial shade.









Elaeagnus x ebbingei 'Limelight' - variegated oleaster

As the non-variegated form; somewhat less vigorous.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size: 3x3 m

Cultivation note:
Liable to revert.













Salix viminalis - common osier willow

A fast-growing small tree that thrives on wet, exposed sites and coastal situations. Many traditional and modern uses, including coppicing, basket and hurdle making and biomass production.
Size: 6x5m

Cultivation notes:
Can be propagated from switches simply pushed 30 cm into the soil. If planting a containerised specimen, dig a planting hole 1.5 times width of rootball, add organic matter and support(s). Add a 5 cm layer of mulch around the base and keep well watered until established.
5-7 year coppicing rotation.








Hypericum 'Hidcote' - rose of sharon
 
A semi-evergreen shrub with large yellow flowers produced with gay abandon from midsummer until end of season. An easy to grow hedge or ground cover for semi-shade.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size 2x2.5 m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.











Berberis darwinii - evergreen barberry

A fiercely spiny vigorous shrub with small evergreen, shiny, spiny leaves. Masses of tiny orange flowers in late winter/early spring on hanging racemes. Most suitable for hedging and barrier planting.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size 3x3 m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.










Euonymus fortunei var. radicans  'Emerald Gaiety' - spindle

Evergreen compact and bushy ground cover shrub with white-green variegated leaves.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size: 1 x 1.5 m


Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.
E. fortunei vars are best grown in poor soil in full sun. They can also be supported to be trained against a shady wall or tree, where they can reach the height of 5 m with indefinite spread.
A very popular/common shrub.







Carex oshimensis 'Evergold' - variegated sedge

A tufted evergreen sedge, variegated with bright yellow stripe. Excellent for edging and ground cover.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size: 30x35 cm


Cultivation notes:
[Grasses:]Soak rootball thoroughly before planting and add an organic soil improver as well as a general fertiliser. Water in drought conditions.
Cut back in early spring every 2-3 years. Prefers fertile and moist yet well-drained soil in sun or partial shade.
(syn. C. hachijoensis 'Evergold', C. morrowii; sedges are a promiscuous lot)






Acer campestre - field maple

A medium tree often used in hedgerows, also in parks and large gardens. Autumn colour.
*RHS award of garden merit.
Size: 5x5 m

Cultivation notes: Sun or partial shade, fertile, moist & well-drained soil.












Prunus laurocerasus 'Otto Lukyen' - cherry laurel



Small evergreen ground cover shrub. Erect and shiny dark green leaves, flowers profusely.

*RHS award of garden merit.
Size: 1x1.5 m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions.











Primula vulgaris - bedding primrose

A popular winter bedding plant used in containers and baskets as well as beds in semi shade. Has a very wide colour range.
Sixe: 20x35 cm

Cultivation notes:
Not very sturdy and does better under cover.



Plant ID Week 6 - herbs!

This week was (mostly) herbs. :)

Prunus laurocerasus - cherry or English laurel

A shrub with evergreen glossy foliage that makes a quick hedge or screen for shade or semi shade. Will carry white flower spikes in the spring where not kept pruned.
*RHS award of garden merit
Size: 6x10m

Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions. 
Large leaves, so hedges should be pruned by hand with secateurs, not with a hedge trimmer.
Not suitable for small gardens

Inexplicably popular; Prunus lusitanica would be a better and, imnsho, prettier option.






Cotoneaster horizontalis


An evergreen ground cover shrub with spring blossom, red berries and rich autumn colour. Can also be used as a wall plant on shady walls, or for covering banks.
*RHS award of garden merit
Size: 60 cm x 1.5 m


Cultivation notes:
Plant November to March, add a 5 cm layer of mulch and water in drought conditions. 
May lose leaves in very cold weather.










Dryopteris felix-masmale/buckler/wood fern

A robust semi-evergreen tufted fern, suitable for ground cover, wild naturalistic gardens and for the seaside.
*RHS award of garden merit
Size: 1.2x1 m

Cultivation notes:
Prefers moist, humus rich soils that don't dry out and partial shade in sheltered locations.




Herbs:

Petroselinum hortense - flat or French parsley

Milder than curly parsley. Goes well with red onions and capers.
Easier to grow than P. crispum.


























Petroselinum crispum - curly parsley

Stronger flavour than P. hortense; a savoury flavour suited to soups and stews.
Also as a digestive when chewed fresh

























Rosmarinus officinalis - rosemary



For Mediterranean cooking and with lamb and roast vegetables.
Essential oils used in shampoos and shower gels.

Cultivation note:
Slow to establish and should not be harvested at all for the first couple of years.











Thymus vulgaris - thyme



Traditionally used in stuffings.
Makes an attractive ground cover for dry, sunny location and is easy to grow.















Salvia officinalis - sage



Strong flavour, best used in things that cook slowly, such as stews. Also traditionally used in stuffings.

Like many traditional herbs, prefers a dry, sun-baked situation. Originally a desert plant.













Mentha piperita - pepper mint




Garnish, herbal teas.

Cultivation note: very invasive, always grow in a container.











Origanum vulgare 'Aureum' - golden oregano




Traditionally used in Italian cooking; oregano works well with tomato dishes.













Artemisia dracunculus - tarragon

Has a mild flavour that goes with fish and chicken, especially in a cream sauce. Used in French cooking, and for flavouring vinegar.













Allium schoenoprasum - chives



Mild onion flavour which disappears with cooking: add at the very end or use in salads.
Flowers also edible.













Tropaeolum majus - nasturtium



Edible flowers and leaves with a peppery, rocket-like flavour. Use as garnish and in salads.














Melissa officinalis - lemon balm


Lemon scented foliage can be used to make a mild herbal tea or as garnish. A good plant for sensory gardens.














Foeniculum vulgare 'Purpureum'/'Nigra' - bronze fennel


An architectural plant with impressive, dark frothy leaves. Traditionally used as a herb with fish.
Seeds can be used in curries.
















Cultivation notes for herbs

Choose a sunny spot close to the kitchen door for easy access. The soil should be well-drained, so a raised bed may be the best option.

Planting:
Prepare the soil of your intended herb bed well by cultivating it thoroughly and removing any stones and weeds. Incorporate some well-rotted F.Y.M., as herbs are hungry plants.

After planting, make sure to water the herbs well and don't let them dry out in dry weather; adding a 5 cm layer of bark as mulching will hep with this.

Keep your herbs lightly trimmed: this encourages branching and bushier plants, and you can use the clippings in the kitchen.

For keeping up the nutrients in the soil use a slow-release organic fertiliser such as chicken or seaweed pellets.

~~~


Bonus recipe: Roast Butternut Squash - quick & easy version

Ingredients:
1 Butternut Squash
Ground coriander
Olive oil
Dried oregano
Fennel seeds
Chilli powder of flakes
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Turn oven on to about 190°C

Deseed squash & chop into chunks. Put aside.
In a little bowl, mix the olive oil, spices and herb (exact amounts depend on the size of your squash and your palate. careful with the chilli.).
Spread squash chunks onto a baking tray, drizzle with the spiced oil and rub it in making sure all squash surfaces get oily.

Cook until cooked. Exact time depends on the size of the chunks and how ripe your squash was. Almost certainly more than half an hour, probably not as much as an hour.

The longer & more complicated version involves fresh garlic, a longer list of spices and a mortar and pestle; this is an "I have a squash, what do I have in the cupboard" bastardisation thereof.

Tuesday 22 November 2011

PPD Assignment 2:2. VARK Learning Styles

It has long been known that people tend to learn in different ways - one size does most definitely not fit all.

One way for figuring out how you learn best – what kind of a learner you are, if you will – is to use the VARK learning styles approach.

VARK stands for...

V isual
A ural (hearing)
R ead/write
K inesthetic

The model categorises people into these four groups, based on how they're likely to learn best.

For example, visual learners will benefit most from using material with a lot visual content like diagrams, pictures or graphs as well as from highlighting or underlining key text, and using lots of different colours. Aural learners, on the other hand, learn best by listening to the material, so it's essential for them to attend their classes!

Those who fall in the read/write group obviously learn most easily by reading, and by writing things down. Kinesthetic learners, on the other hand, need to physically do the thing they're learning. This makes learning in a traditional school or lecture hall environment a challenge, but this can be overcome by using prodigious amounts of real-life examples.

It's also good to keep in mind that around 60% of people are multimodal learners. This means that they often learn best when they combine the techniques of two or more learning styles. For example, I test as a KVR, and I have indeed noticed that I'm unlikely to remember something that I've only heard, if there isn't something concrete or visual I can connect it to.


(Image sources: diagram, vark aardvark)

PPD Assignment 2:1. Effective note taking



Every student who attends their lectures also usually takes notes. These notes are then carefully filed away, usually until about a week before the exams, at which point the student scrabbles to remember why they wrote down “except on leap years! IMPORTANT!!”
A mind map




The best practice for taking notes effectively involves being engaged with the subject before, during and after each lecture:

Before the lecture:

  • review your notes from the previous lecture
  • switch to a positive mindset towards listening and participating
    • ask yourself: “what’s in this for me?” - even if it turns out just to be “passing my exam”
During the lecture:
  • most importantly: stay alert and don’t get distracted - don’t sit next to that friend who relays his facebook friends’ updates as they happen
  • write things down in your own words; don’t just copy the lecturer’s notes
  • pay special attention to any clues (verbal and non-) to what is especially important
After the lecture:
  • review your notes as soon as possible


There are a large number of different note taking formats, and I gave the Cornell format a try earlier this semester:
It started quite well.
But then I started slipping










 More and more...
...until I'd reverted back
to my usual style. :/



Some other note taking formats are:

...to name but a few (more examples here), so there's a style to suit everyone.

I find mind mapping especially fascinating, but find it difficult to implement at lectures. I’ll keep trying, though!